Wine revolution in Tuscany a visit to Michele Satta
Friday, September 17, 2010 at 6:00PM
Bolgheri, a town located in the comune of Castagneto Carducci (LI), on the edge of the Maremma about sixty km South west of Florence, is the birthplace of Sassicaia, Tignanello and Solaia, fine wines in the Super-Tuscan trend. In the last twenty years winemakers from Bolgheri have received attention for the quality of their wines, and also from traditional Chianti winegrowers who did not approve of the new blendings being employed with the venerable Sangiovese. Some Pioneering winemakers here began blending the grapes of Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, Syrah, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, producing a style of wine more in line with the Bordeaux tradition. This region was ruled out as a optimum region in the past because of its proximity to the sea, said to produce wines with a “salty flavour” not to mention the intense heat and winds.
In 1994 the classification of DOC Bolgheri Rosso and Rosso Superiore signified recognition of the use of these different grapes, and these classifications now incorporate ten estates. However, rather ironically, pioneer, Satta's Vigna a Cavaliere (100% Sangiovese) is not recognized by regulators, and only managed to achieve the IGT designation. One further category was created - that of DOC Sassicaia, the first and only single estate in Italy to achieve this. Quite a distinction, which is reflected in the price and because internationally, and especially in America, people recognise them as fine Italian wines, but are often unaware of the origin in Bolgheri. The same is true of other Super-Tuscans; Ornellaia and Belvedere's Guado al Tasso, associated with the famed Antinori family and not with the land it was produced from in Bolgheri.
But this time, on my visit home I'm really interested in one of those pioneers who make wine the way they like, following their own rules and using their instincts to create intruiging wines with style and character unlike the wines made by the big producers which are becoming more and technical and are difficult to tell apart for their generic nature.
One of these wine makers is Michele Satta who I spent a Saturday morning with at his cantina in Donaratico in Castegneto Carducci. And what a fascinating and educational journey that was.
Micheles wines are nothing if not unique and expression of the land and the elements that consitute this small region on the Etruscan Coast south of Livorno. A region which Michele and his wife and family have played a large part in bringing to the world stage.
His wines are an expression of his passion for Tuscany and for what love, care and a skillfull dedication to adjusting to the local unfavorable conditions that put off so many before him, can produce.
It was my third visit to this region of Bolgheri Tuscany this year, I had previously discovered Michele Satta 's wine in a small trattoria where we had lunch three years ago now, I bought his Rosso took it home and was so impressed by its gravitas and consquence in a region where many of the big wine names set you back 100 euro a bottle, that I started to look at how Michele made these quality, unique wines at every level, for under 20 Euro, making them accessible to every wine lover.
MY INTERVIEW WITH MICHELE AT MILANO TASTE SEPT 2010
- I Castagni Premier wine named after the big chesnut trees that populate the forests of Tuscany.
- Cavaliere His 100% Sangiovese that silenced even the most ardent of traditional critics in Chianti and across Italy.If you want to taste the true expression of this most Italian of grapes, perfectly expressed, this is it.
- Piastraia I tried 2005, this wine already had that structure of fruit, rounded soft tannins with promise that laying it down for a few more years will only increase it superlative elegance. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot,Cabernet, and Syrah aged in oak botti.
- Bolgheri rosso easy drinking red that you can buy a case of and serve with pizza, pasta and roasts at home,that has the same complex nose and palate that all Michele's wine does.
- Syrah the 2007 was a sell out, no need to ask why.
- Diambra
- Giovin Re 100% Vognier a triumph and a fabulous surprise with apricot and white flower.
- Costa di Giulia
- Bolgheri bianco
- Bolgheri rosato for rose' lovers. lovely flower nose and aromas of fruit
My interview with Michele and our tasting notes from the cantina I will be blogging about this week here, plus tastings with other winemakers in the Lucca hills, where we have a world winetasting on Italian vs new world and review Michele Satta's Vognier. Have a question you'd like to ask?
A look at people behind winemaking, changing the wine world, one glass at a time
Donna Jackson.
Here is my video of that same trattoria in the charming town of Castagneto Carducci that I went back to for lunch after my my visit to Michele s Cantina this week.
Reader Comments (1)
Great to know that we can have extraordinary, authentic Italian wine without paying a fortune.
Thank to men like Michele Satta for his courage and to wisequeen for bringing us his wine.